Watches & Wonders 2024

BLACK BAY 58 18K

TUDOR introduces a bold version of its popular Black Bay 58 model in 18ct yellow gold with an open case back, powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5400, and featuring a matching all satin-finished 18ct solid gold 3-link bracelet, complete with “T-fit” clasp, an ingenious system for rapid lenght adjustment. The matt 18ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K model is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, presented in rich "golden green", with "Snowflake" hands and applied hour markers in 18ct yellow gold.

The name Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive

BLACK BAY

TUDOR introduces the newest iteration of the Black Bay in monochrome. Representing the latest in Black Bay, this model features evolved design elements, a “T-fit” clasp and is Master Chronometer certified by METAS. The original Black Bay first launched in 2012 and was given the Manufacture Calibre treatment in 2016. Now it is offered in a third evolution cementing the aesthetic and technical future of the line.

Alongside the third-generation Black Bay with burgundy bezel, this new iteration features a monochromatic look with an inky black dial and applied rhodium-plated hour markers and hands for a modern aesthetic. Named Black Bay, this emblematic design in the TUDOR collection is another example of TUDOR's expert command of one of the industry's most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields.

Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Black Bay brings together cuttingedge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly sevendecade heritage of making robust professional diving watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date

In an ode to timeless elegance, Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer presents three new additions to its esteemed Carrera collection. The TAG Heuer Carrera Date, a radiant release of three 36mm precious timepieces, perfectly embodies the commitment to superior design and comfort.

Building upon the success of the 36mm in 2023, these timepieces are a manifestation of understated femininity, accentuated further through usage of precious materials like 18ct rose gold, mother-of-pearl.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper

Following a welcome return to the world of yachting with last year’s release of the Carrera Skipper chronograph in steel, TAG Heuer annonces a new version of the watch featuring a case made from 18ct rose gold. Based on the best-selling ‘glassbox’ design launched in early 2023 and the historic Skipper Reference 7754 of 1968 in terms of its colour scheme, the timepiece is powered by the Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-06) in-house calibre – a version of the Heuer 02 movement especially adapted for regatta timing.

Creating the 39mm case in 18ct rose gold, which combines fine brushed and polished finishes, elevates the Skipper to a level of sophistication that is sure to appeal to high-end collectors - but its usefulness as a fully-functional sailing watch remains uncompromised.

PORTUGIESER ETERNAL CALENDAR

Drawing on the extensive calendar expertise it has acquired since introducing the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC now pushes the boundaries once again with its first secular perpetual calendar - the Portugieser Eternal Calendar.

In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules. A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100.
Another key feature of this watch is the extremely precise moon phase display. Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double Moon™ phase display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years.

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case and a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

The extensive use of glass elements such as a glass dial and double box-glass sapphire crystals showcases the ingenious mechanism inside. The increased transparency also creates a unique sense of lightness, airiness and understated elegance.

PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH

The dial colours of the three newly launched versions of IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph: Horizon Blue, Obsidian and Dune, capture the unique atmospheres of different times of day and night.

Horizon Blue comes in combination with an 18ct white gold case and a blue calfskin strap, the Obsidian with an 18ct 5N gold case and a black alligator leather strap, while the Dune impresses with a stainless steel case and a black alligator leather strap. The models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust mechanical chronograph movement in classic column-wheel design.

The centrepieces of this year's Evolution 9 are two dress watches equipped with the Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA4, the brand’s first manual-winding 36,000 vph mechanical movement to be created in approximately 50 years.

Today, the ritual of winding a watch is one of life’s pleasures. The simple act of turning the crown taps into the senses to forge a deeper connection with time’s natural flow. In the 1960s and ’70s, manually wound 10-beat Grand Seiko creations were manufactured in the pursuit of better rate stability and higher precision.

Caliber 9SA4 makes its debut in a new dress watch belonging to the Evolution 9 Collection, whose design represents a continuation of the Grand Seiko Style that reaches back to the iconic 44GS of 1967. Only this time, the Evolution 9 Style itself has been further refined to create a watch that instantly communicates the charm, elegance, grace, and subtlety one would expect of a hand-wound dress watch. Several aspects of the design have been revisited – from the prominent, grooved indexes, which have been slimmed down and elongated, to the multifaceted lugs, which are now narrower and have a smaller surface area. The watch’s center of gravity has been lowered to ensure the comfort and stability for which Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 creations have become renowned.

A subtle gradation of light is expressed through the use of different materials and various types of finishing. Platinum 950 forms the watch’s inner case, while Brilliant Hard Titanium, an alloy twice as hard as stainless steel, forms the outer case, making the exterior highly resistant to scratches. The combination of the two materials creates a natural gradation and a long-lasting beauty. Some of the case parts in both metals are Zaratsu polished to a distortion-free mirror finish, while others have a hairline finish. Each process is completed by hand by highly skilled craftsmen and women to ensure that an elegant visual harmony is revealed from every angle.

The watch is offered with a leather strap created from a highly durable material that is specially treated in the same traditional way once used in samurai armor. But this time, a new white color was developed specifically for the new Kodo. The white strap is made through tanning with natural materials and then carefully hand-coated with layers of white urushi lacquer to create a deep sheen and a unique texture. A crocodile strap in charcoal grey also comes with the watch.

BR 05 BLACK CERAMIC

The new black ceramic pieces from Bell & Ross have three distinct models: two that become a part of the brand’s permanent collections, and the third piece being a limited edition of 500 pieces.

The three-hand polished satin finish BR 05 Black Ceramic present a shiny black sunburst dial with rhodium-plated skeletonized hands tipped with white luminescent material, available with the integrated ceramic bracelet or a rubber strap.

The satin-polished BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic stands apart with its tinted transparent dial, revealing the mechanical self-winding BR-CAL.322-1 movement with a black ruthenium finish.

Finally, the dial on the matte sandblasted BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic is made of a black smoked sapphire crystal and the backdrop for the rhodium-plated skeletonized hands adorned with high-shine green luminescent material. This model is particularly exclusive, produced in a limited series of only 500 pieces, and available only with the integrated matte black ceramic bracelet.
It was a new challenge for the Bell & Ross teams, to create for the first time, the BR 05 case/bracelet integration in ceramic and it represents a bold technical and aesthetical statement.
In the BR 05 collection, each of the three characterful watches is a milestone in its own right.

Through seven years of meticulous research and development, Panerai has filed a patent application for a titanium ceramization process through Electrolytic Plasma Oxidation able to achieve a very distinctive hue of blue.

This process transforms the titanium alloy surface into a dense ceramic layer, and the specific choice of elements used, combined with the electrolyte composition, allowed for the creation of the watch’s peculiar and striking blue color, a shade inspired by the open seas.

The technique yields a significantly enhanced hardness, and the resultant case is 44% lighter than steel yet has fracture toughness ten times higher than traditional ceramic. A material that can withstand high pressure, and very high thermal stress.

PAM01466’s aesthetic evokes the spirit of the sea with its blue sun-brushed dial accented with a decal of Luna Rossa and small red second hands, a subtle nod to the sailing team’s vivid identity.

ALPINE EAGLE 41 XP FROZEN SUMMIT

Honoured by the Poinçon de Genève, the original Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit model epitomises the combination of Chopard's watchmaking and jewellery savoir-faire. Every aspect, from its 41 mm-diameter case to the entire dial, bezel, crown, and integrated bracelet crafted in Ethical 18-carat white gold, sparkles with meticulously set diamonds. This creative feat represented a significant challenge, elevating the collection to new heights of haute joaillerie. Making no compromises in terms of technical expertise, this exceptional creation is endowed with the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.41-L movement, featuring automatic winding via a micro-rotor and an impressive 65-hour power reserve.

L.U.C XPS FOREST GREEN

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green timepiece celebrates the three core values of the L.U.C collection: technical performance, aesthetic refinement, and a commitment to certified watchmaking. With an all-new Forest Green sector-type dial, it combines vintage appeal with modern innovation, elegantly housed in a 40-mm Lucent Steel™ case that’s perfectly proportioned for a wide variety of wrist sizes. Driving its precision is the Calibre L.U.C 96.12-L, meticulously engineered to meet the exacting standards of chronometer certification, illustrating the in-house design and manufacturing prowess of which Chopard is capable.

The brand showcases 11 new references in the millesime collection: from the GPHG 2023 award-winning model with small seconds counter at 6 o'clock enhanced with two new colour hues of Denim Blue and British Racing Green, an elegant moon phase with central seconds, a 35mm feminine line with central seconds hand or a poetic moon phase in a contemporary setting of 16 lab grown diamond, to a Tri-Compax chronograph with vintage allure of celebrated Panda models. Each timepiece is a result of watchmaking expertise and adhesion to the codes of an understated, elegant style, blending character and discretion, distinctiveness and timeless appeal.